There is a lovely village about four hours north of the city of Bangalore. Its name, Pavagada. It lies among pink granite hilltops and arid red plains speckled with desert shrub of an obstinate green. It's here that I come to do my community field work (although most of my project requires me to be in the city at the eye clinic). It's also here that I've spent some of my most peaceful and eye-opening days in this country. The village lies at the foot of a magnificent outcropping and into this outcropping is sown the remnants of a fort and a history centuries old. Ever since I got to this sleepy town five months ago (god, it's been five months!), I wanted to climb to the top. Today, FINALLY, I did...
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